@adam outler: I wouldn’t Dremel the contacts. Then dried using a blast of compressed nitrogen.I found that the best way to get it without queries is to go to a boat supplies place and explain that you are using it to clean circuit boards.They usually don’t mind, after all they sell it by the gallon for cleaning fibreglass hulls prior to repair among other things.BTW nail polish remover made now tends to be “acetone free” thanks to irresponsible teenagers sniffing it to get high.I’ve been using Kester 63/37 organic core for a while, ever since being introduced to it at work. Ubuntu-inside.me has written a great guide to using f.lux:
Ya can pick these up at the dollar tree and they are great for getting in extra tight.
Also, when you're calibrating a display, you'll want to do the opposite and quit f.lux before you do.
We think that leftover flux can sometimes make even the nicest of circuit boards look a bit dingy, and The secret to his clean PCBs is a product called Poly Clens.
If you don’t clean it off the flux will eat at the solder connections turning them black and even chew through small leads. @Tim, I think (well, guess) some minerals could conduct, thus causing shorts on the surface of the board.Minerals and salts themselves usually no.
Not ‘brushless’, but it has always removed all of the different types of flux that I’ve used.I dip my desoldering brade in flux, then remove any additional solder.I dremmel down the contacts so they’re rounded and no longer pointy.If the board is to sit outside a project box, ill cut a piece of plexiglass to size and use some Walmart ultra clear liquid cement to fasten it. The circuit was behaving oddly so I ran a blade in between the solder joints and cleaned everything with some isopropyl alcohol, a Q-tip, and some paper towels.There is a downloadable safety datasheet which gives info on the ingredients, but not the exact % mixture. We use 2331-ZX in our wave soldering machine and it works perfectly fine. Still functioning, a YMMV kind of thing I suppose.Never use water soluble unless you are using a dishwasher to clean the boards.
Clean the back of the board by dabbing, then blast with the heat gun on low heat.A good liquid water-soluble flux is Alpha 850. and that had some nasty cosmetic effects.i use CH3CH(OH)CH3 (Isopropanol) and dry the boards with N2Polyclense? Use Add/Remove Programs, and choose "AMD Catalyst Install Manager" to proceed. A quick dip in the ultrasonic bath or scrub under cold running water with a toothbrush will take either flux right off.“a method he found online” link (gorum.ca) claims “Pure isopropyl alcohol (99%) is only available as a lab or industrial solvent, so most amateurs would not be able to acquire it.” But I got 99% iso at the local drugstore, and it’s available on Amazon for $2.67 a pint (Cumberland Swan brand).in my case i get 99% iso from corner drugstore (Jean-Coutu Pharmacy) and a toothbrush.if you bake the board slightly, the flux will come off easier.Isopropanol and a brush is good for small projects, but the ultrasonic bath is excellent for larger qualtities.I noticed in Mikes pictures that he had not soldered the ends of the component legs. We let the boards soak for a minute then blow them off with an air compressor.
Mouser has many Flux left on the PCB can also cause resistance ‘shorts’ between pins causing problems in the future.Like many above have said, I like to use an old toothbrush with nail-varnish remover (watered down acetone I believe)At my old work the engineers used turps and a toothbrush followed by a clean in a sink full of hot water and dish washing detergent. No clean is the way to go with a simple flux remover.Anyone tried lighter fluid instead of acetone/alcohol? I still clean it off of my boards if I’m using it to assemble the whole board, but it’s not necessary (and I usually won’t bother for spot repairs.)
Kenmore.I shouldn’t have been surprised because when I was just a young engineer and had a board come back from the prototype house non-functional, an older engineer took all my boards into the company lunchroom and ran them through the dishwasher. Also washes off with dabbing in water.Both of these fluxes are pretty corrosive, though not track-dissolving corrosive.
It’s a no-clean flux that actually works really well, much better than the no-clean Kester pens I’ve used. I use a hot distilled water soak. None of the boards cleaned this way had anything that breaks down in water such as cardboard sleeves in the transformers, nor any component that might accumulate excess water in deep recesses. We recently got a expensive washing machine that uses de-ionized water and pressure jets to clean the boards really well. The excess alcohol can be blotted off with a paper towel, or for that extra shiny finish blown off with canned or compressed air.I always clean my PCBs with acetone and an old toothbrush.Acetone in the eye will dissolve your cornea.Wear goggles!I guess hackaday readers have never heard of flux remover/cleaner….I use isopropyl alcohol and an acid brush with most of the bristles cut off to make it stiffer.I worked in the electronics industry for a while, and you’re all over thinking it. Cleaning flux from a solder joint also allows for proper inspection (no copper exposed). But it gets the job done.It was like, “this is where we wash the boards…” and im like, oookay?Old toothbrush with trichlorethylene, from 70’s, without problems.by the way, if you want to check how clean your board really is, use a UV light in a dark room. I’ve seen it turn copper traces into a green, corroded mess in just days of being left on a board. We used to throw assembled boards into one of several off the shelf dishwashers and ran them through a regular wash cycle. I’ve seen older equipment where the component legs have corroded right through the board because of this – so freaking solder the ends guys!No clean flux will work just fine and leave no visible residue as long as you don’t overheat the joint.My first job at an electronics company also used a dishwasher to clean the boards. Flux can corrode metals (RMA and RA type flux have an activating agent, typically an acid).
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